March
2005
Where are we: Livingstone, Zambia
Date: 1st – 6th
March 2005
Weather: Hot and sunny
Camping: Jollyboys Backpackers
So I chickened
out of the bungi, I woosed out of the canyon swing and a day out with
Bob the twitcher was just too extreme, but we did have a great stay
in Livingstone. Our time here was made all the better thanks to the
hospitality, warmth and friendship of Sue who owns and runs Jollyboys.
The good times were marred only by Englands dismal performance in the rugby.
Today,
the town of Livingstone, the former capital of Zambia, has a buzz about it. Mugabe’s
self destruction of the Zimbabwe economy has left the town of Vic
Falls on the Zim side literally a ghost town,
tourists are thin on the ground and with the tourists gone
so are the dollars. The demise of Vic Falls has however injected new energy
and vigour into Livingstone and I truly wish them well, they are pumping
a lot of time and effort into the town and making it very tourist
friendly. The town has a good vibe and there is plenty to keep you
occupied even after you have exhausted yourself with the high octane
adrenalin sports. Livingstone is celebrating its 150th
anniversary since the infamous Dr Livingstone first saw the falls
and named them after Queen Victoria, although locally they are known
as Mosi-au-Tunya, Smoke that Thunders. Looking at the town from the
high street it doesn’t strike you as a particularly pretty town, but
get into the back streets and a whole other place opens up. The town
was effectively put on the map back in 1910 when the land was auctioned
and a mad flurry of sand and mortar were thrown down. The back streets
are classic architecture of the period and refelect the grandness
of the time. Today the buildings still stand, many are in need of
some TLC but they are still working buildings from which the new town
of Livingstone goes about its daily business. We went on a historic
town tour with Charli (ask at Jollyboys), a local news correspondent
who in his spare time brings the stories of Livingstone past and present
to life with his “Walkabouts”. We got the low down on Livingstone
history and the way of life in the town today, Charli providing many
an amusing story of the goings on both in the town and the neighbouring
villages and markets. This is a great day out and we highly recommend
it as it will get you off the beaten track and into those places you
may otherwise not go to, to see day-to-day life of the people that
are Livingstone.
Livingstone
entertained us well for 5 days; sundowners on the deck at the Royal
Livingstone with the Larny brigade, tribal song and dance festivals,
local school performing arts festival, town tour, visit to the orphanage,
adventure sports (enough to make you insolvent), visits to the falls
and craft markets (enough to bankrupt you) and good conversations
over a Mosi larger. Thanks to all in Livingstone. A message to fellow
overlanders, Jollyboys is the place to stay!!! If you do pass by give
Yoda the cat a cuddle and stroke for us and have a good tug of war
with that mischievous little rasckal Mole. Another word of warning,
fill up with fuel before going to Zam, diesel cost nearly 0.90$US
per litre and goes up to 1.20$US per litre the further north you go………..
Tagebuch
Wir
sind hier ein paar Tage geblieben, haben Mole, den Hund und Yoda,
die Katze adoptiert, die jeden Morgen ins Zelt zum Kuscheln kam. Ausserdem
sind wir noch mit dem Microlight gelfogen
und haben mit einem jungen Journalisten, Chali, eine historische Stadttour
als Versuchskaninchen unternommen. Er wollte von uns feedback haben
wie er sich verbessern kann, was er noch anbieten koennte und wieviel
Geld er nehmen kann. Das war sehr interessant; David hat die Videokamera
mitgenommen und ihn gefilmt. Spaeter haben wir das
zusammengeschnitten und Sue von Jollyboys eine Kopie gegeben so dass
sie sich das mit Chali angucken kann. Ausserdem sind
wir mit Beck zu einem Waisenheim gegangen, die schuechternen Kinder
sind schnell aufgetaut und haben mit uns gespielt. Wir
haben Kugelschreiber und Papier dagelassen und Jollyboys hat von anderen
Reisenden gesammelt.
Dann waren wir nochmal bei den Vic Falls um diese bei Sonnenuntergang zu photographieren aber leider haben
die Faelle so gesprueht dass alles ganz neblig war. Bei den Kunsstaenden
haben wir uns total belabern lassen und Souveniers gekauft….
Ausserdem sind wir noch zu einem traditionellen
“drum and dance” festival gegangen. Das war ziemlich cool, ausser
dass ab und zu die herkoemmlichen Kopftuecher mit modernen Baseball
caps ersetzt wurden. Ich hab Freundschaft mit einem 9-jaehrigen Jungen,
Thomas, geschlossen und ihm gezeigt wie die
Kamera funktionierte. Das war’s dann, er hat alle moeglichen Leute
photographiert und fand sich ganz cool vor seinen Freunden, sues!
Leider war dann irgendwann die Batterie leer.
Wir hatten eine schoene Zeit hier in Livingstone aber trotzdem wurde
es Zeit weiterzufahren….
Where are we: Sinazongwe, Lake Kariba, Zambia
Date: 7th
March 2005
End GPS: S17 16.242 E27 27.861
Total Kilometres: 50,326 km
Weather: Very humid and no wind
Camping: Lakeview
We finally
drew ourselves away from Jollyboys and Livingstone at 15:30………..we are heading north to have
a few days at lake Kariba. This is the largest man made lake in Africa, forming the boundary between
Zim and Zam. At the head of the water lies
the main gateway with Zimbabwe and the massive Kariba hydro electric
dam. The lake or reservoir is 280 km long, at its widest point it
is 32 km wide, has an average depth of 418 metres
and can hold 180 600 000 000 cubic metres of water. I’m such
a geek!!!! We shall work our way up the lake over the next couple
of days to take in some of its relaxing sights and sounds.
First stop
is the small settlement at Sinazongwe on the south western shores
of the lake. The road leads north from Livingstone, to Batoka it is
good fast tar and we made speedy progress. Afer driving through Batoka
there is a turning to the right that takes you over the railway line
and then east toward the lake. The road is again good tar and easy
driving. The only thing to be wary of are the local bicycle riders.
African’s
can ride bicycles and they can go extraordinarily fast downhill; they
have however, yet to master the art of looking over their shoulder
when they hear an approaching car. When they do try this they either
swerve uncontrollably into the middle of the road and into your path,
requiring emergency braking and yourself to swerve to avoid them,
or they disappear into the thick undergrowth by the side of the road
never to be seen again. We give them a honk on the horn when we are
still far away to get the chaos over before we catch them up, but
for some strange reason as we approach they still insist on another
quick glance over their shoulder and further chaos ensues. We came
upon a group of 5 riders who were doing their impression of the Tour
De Africa. It was a straight downhill section and the guys where all
hunched over the bars of their sit up and beg push bikes. With the
force of gravity behind them and a fair tale wind the bikes where
exceeding the design speed parameters of the African racing bike.
That said they were holding pretty good formation with the lead rider
closely slip streamed by the main pelaton. We admired the style and
grace of such honed, refined riders at one with their machines……that
was until they heard the rumble of a 200tdi Landrover cruising up
behind them. We were still some 200 metres from the group; however
the sound of our engine struck fear into them, like a lion roaring
out from the bush. We saw it coming before it happened…………..”Noooooooooooooooo”
we shouted………..time started to slow down and everything went slow
mo………………As if a mini explosion had occurred in the midst of the pelaton
a shockwave exploded outward from the group. The lead rider was grabbed
by the sudden extreme gravity surge, his bike was picked up from under
him and he was whisked off down the hill, a mere passenger on an out
of control machine, the G- force stretched his face into a contorted
expression of terror, he disappeared out of sight but not out of earshot
as we heard his “ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh” growing fainter the deeper
into the void he went. The pelaton didn’t suffer as well. The shockwave
had started when one rider had dared to look backward over his shoulder,
as he had done so he had clipped his mate who then for some reason
also decided to look back……this then had a rubberneck effect with
the other riders all turning to looked back. The next few seconds
were comical - and hurtful for two of the poor guys.
As the
pelatons aerodynamics broke up, the turbulence started. It hit one
rider and his machine started to wobble, then the next rider and the
next. Before long the harmonized group was all a wobble as if the
ground beneath them had turned to jelly. Then Mother Nature stepped
in, her gravity sucked them up and then spat them out. They went flying
off in all directions. Two managed to maintain control and brought
their machines to rest at the road side. However the other two where
beyond help, even if they had had brakes that is. The first wobbled,
then tilted, then high sided his machine. He flew through the air
head first still holding the handle bars of the bike which was now
also upside down and following close behind him. Only upon hitting
the tarmac did man and machine separate. He continued down the road
doing somersaults and cartwheels. Meanwhile his friend had got his
wobble under control, but only just in time to see the undergrowth
envelope him as he careered off the road and disappeared from sight.
We pulled up at the carnage about 10 seconds later. The one
man was emerging from the thick bush, bike in hand and a big grin
on his face, whether this was from shock or from the ecstasy of having
escaped without a scratch we don’t know. The other poor chap had not
fared so well. He had cut his head and knee and was bleeding. He looked
totally bemused and we felt so sorry for him. Now this is one of those
times when I personally know not what to do. We are trained in first
aid and always want to help if someone is unwell. However when someone
is bleeding so much and when you are told how rife
HIV is in Africa it makes me scared and paranoid.
I am not a doctor and we carry only basic sterile and barrier equipment
such as rubber gloves etc. Had the guy had major wounds and or been
unconscious we would definetly have gotten out and helped however
the guy was standing and was compos mentis, he also had his mates
there and the incident had not been caused by us, but by their reaction
to us. We gave him lots of tissue to stem the flow of blood and his
friends took him under arm to help him to his home where his wife
would tend to his wounds and dented pride. I did feel bad just leaving him but the combination
of factors and the dwindling light made me decide that we needed to
push on. He would live another day albeit with a headache and aching
knee, but if we weren’t careful we could run ourselves into danger
by driving in the dark on an unfamiliar road.
As it turned
out we ran out of light just 10km from our destination. We had seen
signs for Lakeview Lodge and opted to drive the last 10 km on a dirt
track in the dark. Not something we like doing and not recommended.
It was our own fault though as again we had set off too late in the
day. These are the two mistakes you can make in Africa, leaving too late and trying to cover too much ground. As it turned out
we arrived safely at Lakeview an hour after sunset. To our relief
there was somewhere to camp. Dion and his wife made us very welcome
and even invited us to a free dinner of cottage pie and veggies. A
very unexpected but welcome end to the day as we relaxed and watched
the bright white lights of the fishermen who fish for Kapenta, a small
whitebait like fish. It is drawn to the bright lights that they shine
into the water. As the fish swarm to the light like insects to a flame,
the fisherman haul up the net and land them
on the boat. All very interesting but boy these
fish stink when they dry them in the sun.
Lake view is very tranquil and in a
lovely setting right on the lakeshore. It is small with about 4 chalets
and simple outdoor dinning area and a cool pool. We enjoyed a very
relaxed evening and lazy morning. This is worth a visit if you want
to just take time out and do nothing but walk, read and watch the
birds fly by as the day goes on.
Tagebuch
Wir haben es erst geschafft uns um 15:24 Uhr von Livingstone
loszureissen und sind dann ganz gut auf guter
Teerstrasse zum Lake Kariba gefahren.
Unterwegs ist uns ein Monitor Lizard vors
Auto gerannt und die Leute auf den Fahrraedern erschrecken sich immer
so sehr, drehen sich um, verlieren Balance und fallen vom Rad!! Unglaublich! Es ging weiter einen Sandweg
entlang und es wurde schon wieder dunkel. Das Licht hier ist wunderschoen, wie in Angola, ich glaube
das ist so weil wir in der gleichen Longitude stecken. Um 18:55 Uhr sind wir bei einer
lodge, Lakeview, direkt am Karibasee angekommen und konnten die ganzen
Kapentafischer auf dem See sehen. Hier wird ein kleiner Fisch, Kapenta,
gefischt (so gross wie eine Anchovie und wird mit Kopf und allem drum
und dran gegessen) nachts mit kuenstlichem Licht angelockt und gefischt,
getrocknet und mit scharfer Sosse gegessen. Die Lichter auf dem See
sehen aus wie eine Landungsbahn oder eine grosse Bruecke. Wir haben von den Besitzern umsonst
leckeres Abendessen (Cottage Pie, yum!) bekommen und sind
frueh ins Bett gegangen.
Where are we: Lake Kariba, Zambia
Date: 8th – 9th
March 2005
End GPS: S17 27.014 E27 22.953
Total Kilometres: 50,402 km
Weather: Mega hot and humid
Camping: The Clubhouse
We
wanted to drive an old piste that runs the length of the shoreline
north to Kariba and the dam, however Dion
advised us that the track is in very poor shape and currently many
bridges are down hence the route is impassable due to some deep river
crossings. We elected therefore to head back to Batoka and the tar
road. We got as far as the end of the dirt track and then changed
our mind. That is the great thing about being in control of your own
time and not having an itinary. Instead of heading north we decided
to go south for a little bit and visit another part of Lake Kariba at a place called The Clubhouse.
This is about 70 km down the way and is set on a crocodile farm. It’s
a fantastic place that caters for independent travellers and as such
is very relaxed. The place has excellent facilities and we had a wonderful
time relaxing here and swimming with the resident dogs in the pool.
Set high on a lush green grassy hill overlooking the lake, The Clubhouse
is gifted with fine vistas and romantic sunsets that can be watched
whilsts sipping a drink at the outside bar or in the pool. It has
the setting and peacefulness of a very expensive lodge yet we paid
a mere $3 for camping making it one of the bargains of Southern
Africa. Theres
plenty to do here as well as the guys that run it can take you on
safaris to the nearby islands which are frequented by elephant and
many other animals, a tour of the croc farm, or sundowner cruises.
As the
Clubhouse is on the croc farm they naturally sell croc meat for cooking.
Kat and I tried this one evening…….well that’s enough said about that…..obviously
an aquired taste……
Tagebuch
Ich bin frueh aufgewacht und habe ein absolutes Naturschauspiel gesehen
als die Sonne aufging und knallrot ueber
dem See aufstieg, unglaublich! Leider war ich zu muede um aus dem
Dachzelt zu klettern und die Kamera zu holen….Wir sind dann spaeter
zum See gegangen und haben Fruehstueck gemacht und sind dann weitergefahren.
Eigentlich wollten wir total gerne eine Hausboottour auf dem Karibasee
machen aber das Boot war fuer ein paar Tage weg und wir wollten nicht
warten – wir wollen aber hier irgendwann wieder herkommen!
Gegen Mittag sind wir an einem anderen Dorf
am See angekommen und haben beim “Clubhouse” was auf einer Krokodilfarm
liegt gecampt. Hier war es echt schoen und relaxed und ausserdem gab
es einen riesen swimming pool. Hier sind
wir 2 Tage geblieben, waren mit den Hunden schwimmen und haben unsere
Route geplant und die umwerfenden Sonnenuntergaenge auf dem Zambezi beobachtet.
Ausserdem haben wir Crocodile Stir fry gekocht und ich muss sagen,
es schmeckte am Anfang gut, wurde aber etwas gummimaessig und ziemlich
fischig, also war nicht so wirklich unser liebstes Essen aber wenigstens
haben wir jetzt auch mal Krokodil probiert.
Where are we: Siavonga, Lake Kariba, Zambia
Date: 10th
March 2005
End GPS: S16 29.152 E28 39.861
Total Kilometres: 50,829 km
Weather: 36.3 C Hot and sunny
Camping: Sandy Beach
To
go north we needed to double back to the tar road at Batoka. The cruise
north is good tar and relaxed. A few checkpoints
but all straight forward although we did get stopped and asked to
step out of the vehicles at one. As we did
so they pulled out a …………………………….spray gun!!!? And began frantically
spraying our hands? Foot and Mouth they explained…………oh? OK? They
didn’t spray our feet only our hands and the tyres?????. Maybe it was an African variant………..Hand and Tyre disease. With clean hands at the
wheel and sterile tyres on the road we felt refreshed and cleansed.
Hallelujah Brother, we drove north born again. The road to Siavonga
at the dam, leads you down an escarpment. The road deteriorates in
places due to the constant pounding it gets from the massive lorries
that ply the trade between Zim and Zam. It’s fine although you do
have to be careful of the trucks as they tend to freewheel down the
hill to save fuel!!!! They also have a tendancy when going up the
escarpment to stop in awkward places, not because they break down
or overheat, but because the Zimbabwean driver stop and sell the fuel
out of their tanks……………………..We stayed at Sandy beach on the lake shore.
A quiet lodge where we camped and had a room for
toilet and shower. It is run by Herman the German, a large
man both in stature and stories. Originally from Munich he has lived in Zam for over 30
years. He is a nice man and we enjoyed our time here. The lodge has
simply bungalows and a nice pool and sandy beach upon which the hippos
laze and swim. This is a fine place to replenish the batteries before
hitting Lusaka or heading into Zim. We have decided
to miss out Zim due to the ongoing problems in the country. We have
been told by others who have come through that many tourist places
are closed down due to lack of business, fuel is scarce, food is limited
and expensive, they want over $50 US for a visa, it takes us the wrong
direction, they are due to have election which when held the last
time degenerated into a bloodbath and I personally think Mugabe couldn’t
give a hoot about his people, only his cronies. As such I certainly
do not want to line his or their pockets with my money. Phew I feel
better for that little rant!
Tagebuch
Ich bin zu dem Geraeusch von Schritten und Laufen aufgewacht – neben
uns im Baum haben die Vervet-Affen wie die bekloppten gespielt und
getobt; das war so suess zu beobachten! Wie Menschen haben die Teenager
die Kleineren fast verpruegelt bis die Mama kam
und sie verteidigt hat. Echt cool wie die gespielt haben und sich
uns Menschen ueberhaupt nicht bewusst waren wie in all den Safari
Parks. Die Krokodilfarm hat gestunken und wir haben bezahlt und sind
weiter Richtung Damm gefahren. Am Strassenrand wollte uns jemand einen
lebenden Geier verkaufen – igitt! Die Strasse war gut und wurde nur
unterbrochen von einem Stueck Stroh auf der Fahrbahn neben einer Huette,
wo wir angehalten wurden. Ein strahlender
Zambier hat mich freundlich gebeten
bitte auszusteigen und meine Haende zu waschen?! – Foot and Mouth
(MaulundFuss Seuche!) aber unsere Fuesse und Schuhe mussten nicht
bespritzt werden…..
Die Strasse fuehrte durch ein Escarpement und hier verkaufen die
ganzen LKW-Fahrer Diesel an die armen Menschen am Strassenrand und
lassen sich dann die Berge runterollen wie die Verrueckten, beaengstigend!!
Somit verdienen sie sich extra cash…..
Wir sind dann in Siavonga bei Sandy Beach,
direkt am See angekommen und wurden freundlich von Hermann begruesst.
Hermann kommt aus Muenchen und lebt hier schon seit ueber 30 Jahren
und war frueher Musiker hat u.a. auch auf dem Kiez gespielt, und somit
haben wir schoen gekloent…
Where are we: Lusaka, Zambia
Date: 11th
March 2005
End GPS: S15 24.705 E028 17.541
Total Kilometres: 51,032 km
Weather: 38.1 C
Camping: Cha Cha Cha Backpackers
We made
a visit to the dam at Kariba. A mighty structure, here are the fast
facts:
Design:
Double curvature concrete arch
Height:
128 metres
Crest length:
617 metres
Vol of
concrete: 1082000 cubic metres
Floodgates:
6 (remember this for the story in a mo)
Flow through
1 floodgate at max retention level in reservoir: 1534 per second
Flow through
1 floodgate at max
per day: 136 000 000 000 litres
Time for an interesting story about the dam. When they decided to build the
dam it meant that many of the local Tonga tribes had to be resettled as
their villages would be submerged by the reservoir waters. The Tonga had however a belief that the
Zambezi river
was ruled over by a serpent creature called the NyamiNyami. When they
started to build the dam the Tonga swore that the Nyaminyuami would
not allow his river to be dammed and cut him off from his wife who
lived above the dam wall. The Tonga said he would rip down the dam
and sure enough in 1957 / 58 the Zambezi received the worst floods in its history. So much
so, that the temporary dam was swept away. The contarctor thereafter
increased the spill gates from 4 to 6 to cater for NyamiNyami attempts
to destroy their dam. Today he is said to have made piece with the
dam, time shall tell.
So here
we are going Cha Cha Cha is Lu sa Ka Ka Ka …………..the journey here
was fine with tar all the way but would you “adam and eve it” we got
stopped again for speeding. This was great however as we were doing
52kph in a 50kph. I tried the “But I drive in MPH” however the guy
was switched on and had heard it before, he duely showed me the KPH
markings on my speedo…”well, I’ll be”, I exclaimed. So to the next…..”What
you’ve stopped me for 2kph over the limit?” “But that is illegal in
the UK as our speedos are only calibrated
to an accuracy of 5% of the reading. That means I was within the error
parameters and you cannot therefore charge me”. “Nice try sir, but
you are in Zambia and anything over the sign posted
limit is deemed as speeding”. So to the next “well, I’m not paying
any fine, I’ll go to court….where is it and when”. “The Central Courthouse,
Mugalwi Road 24, Lusaka at 14:00 on the 15th March… sir”……….”Bugger”……..So
to the next……”I won’t be in Lusaka or Zambia then as I am driving
to Tanzania right now, oh and I’m still not paying”…….”That’s OK sir
we’ll radio ahead to the border to let them know you are coming and
to double the fine….sir”……..Heck I was getting nowhere………last try
“Mind if I sit down”……”Not at all sir”……..”Right this is a sit in
and I’m not moving from here, I shall bore you too death all day with
all our stories of travelling”. “I take it you are still not paying
then….sir” “
No”…. “OK Sir, heres your license have a nice day and enjoy
Lusaka”………………………………………I was quite offended…..maybe
I should have offered to pay to recount our stories.
Lusaka is like most
other African cities, a fusion of old and new, white, black and asian. Home to many different tribes, VSOs, NGOs, Oxfam, UNICEF,
STC, WWF……………the list goes on. The old part of town is bustling with
local traders and guys plying their trade in the queues of traffic.
It’s got a hip edge to it and some interesting hangouts. There are
two main roads that lead through the city….the Great North road that
goes…………..North, and the Great East road that……well…..goes where it
says it does. Head on the Great East road and you will enter little
South Africa……….a 5 km stretch
of dual carriageway lined with those modern bastions of security and
safety…….”The Shopping Mall”. Africa is left behind
and you are transported to the never never land of Steers, Nandos,
Cinemas, Spar, high speed internet, pharmacists, butchers selling
Boer Wors and Braai packs and much much more.
I’m not knocking it, indeed we spent
a whole day in the mall interneting, shopping and window dreaming
of a previous life back home.
We stayed at Cha Cha Cha backpackers which is about 2 km from the
old part of town and 2 km from the never never land. It is called
Cha Cha Cha as this was the name given to the period just after independence
was granted to Zambia, the country
formerly known as Northern Rhodesia. Unlike Southern Rhodesia, Zambia gained its independence
with relative ease and little or no blood shed. Zambia was originally
administered by the British South African Company under Cecil John
Rhodes who had been given royal charter, later in 1953 it becamse
part of the Federation with what was then Southern Rhodesia and Nyasaland, Zim and Malawi. In 1963 this
federation was dissolved and Northern Rhodesia was given independence
and renamed Zambia. Southern Rhodesia had to wait until the 1980s for its blood stained independence.
Cha Cha
Cha is like any backpacker, a bit jaded at the edges, full of bored,
depressed looking backpackers and the usual gaggle of dogs. It’s got
a car park large enough to set up our camp and it has a pool and serves
cold beers. We met another couple in a red landy who had come down
the east coast and so we spent an evening exchanging information on routes as they shall return
to the UK via the west coast.
Tagebuch
Ich bin schon wieder frueh aufgewacht und habe das schoene Licht
auf dem roten Sand bewundert, mir die Kamera geschnappt und Photos
geschossen und auch glatt zwei Hippos gesehen. Dann hab ich schiss
bekommen und bin zurueck zum Landy gegangen wo
David Café Latte gemacht hat. Nachdem wir gefruehstueckt haben sind
wir zum Kariba Damm gefahren. Hier mussten wir unsere Paesse lassen
und durften durch die Grenzkontrolle mit Zimbabwe um uns den Damm
anzugucken.
Danach haben wir uns auf dem Weg nach Lusaka gemacht und
wurden schon wieder wegen zu schnelles Fahren angehalten. Die uebliche
Story hat uns wieder rausgeredet und der Chief hat David seine “sympathy”
gegeben wie er sich ausgedrueckt hat. In Lusaka mussten wir
erstmal tanken – Diesel hier ist am teuersten
in ganz Afrika! Im Backpackers Chachacha haben wir Leute getroffen
die auch ueberland fahren wollen und ihren Landy nach Kapstadt geschifft
haben und ueber die Westkueste zurueck fahren wollten, also haben
wir bei ein paar Bier Informationen ausgetauscht.
Where are we: 50km out of Lusaka, Zambia (we had a hard day OK!!!!)
Date: 12th
March 2005
End GPS: S15 00.282 E28 09.517
Total Kilometres: 51,091 km
Weather: 31 C
Camping: Fringilla Farm
A long day behind the wheel…..all 50 km of it.
It was so late in the day by the time we had shopped and uploaded
the web site we could only make it this far before the light started
to fade. Fringilla farm actually turned out to be a good stop and
I would recommend it for people coming to Lusaka from the North. We ended up talking
with the son of the owner, the black dog of the family, all the others
are all devote Christians, Andrew on the
other hand had found his God in Brandy and beer. It wasn’t long before
we where driving over the road to his neighbours who run a chicken
farm (over the road in Africa means 30km up the road). There
we found a party in full flow and we enjoyed a fun night around the
fire pit sharing laughs with all the clan.
Tagebuch
David hat uns ein riesiges Fruehstueck gemacht und danach sind wir zum Spar supermarket gefahren. Hier war das so modern
sowas hab ich seit London nicht gesehen,
noch nichtmal in Deutschland! Es gab hier absolut alles und am besten
war, dass es ein Internetcafe gab, wo es Café Latte gab und wir mit
dem Laptop anschliessen konnten so dass wir unsere Website hochladen
konnten. Danach haben wir eine Kleinigkeit zu Mittag gegessen, waren
noch in einer super Apotheke wo es alles gab und sind dann nur 50km
ausserhalb von Lusaka gefahren, nur um aus der Stadt zu kommen und
haben hier gecampt. Wir haben Andrew, den Sohn des
Besitzers, kennengelernt. Dieser war gelangweilt und wollte
alles von uns wissen und von sich erzaehlen und hat uns eingeladen
mit ihm zu Freunden zu fahren um zu grillen und Bier zu trinken. Also
sind wir in seinen Pickup wagen gestiegen
und auf die andere Strassenseite auf eine Farm gefahren. Hier wurden
wir ganz freundlich von 2 Hunden und einer Gruppe weisser Zambier
begruesst, haben ums Feuer gesessen und uns unterhalten…
Where are we: Shiwa Ngandu, Zambia
Date: 13th – 15th
March 2005
End GPS: S11 10.185 E31 35.998
Total Kilometres: 51,849 km
Weather: Mixed bag
Camping: Kapishya
We drove
over 760 km today which is an indication of how good the road north
is. This is the main highway to Tanzania so is in top condition. We are
in Jehovah country, literally every 10 km there is a Jehovas Witness
hall. Bushcamping is thus out of the question as it would be by far
too dangerous with these guys about. We could be talked and preched
to death.
We kept
going in the dark for the last 10 km to Shiwa Ngandu. This is a very
large estate that was established at the turn of the century by a
British Colnel in the British Army. He had been stationed in the area
and had been instrumental in establishing the boundaries with the
neighbouring Belguim Congo (DRC) and Northern Rhodesia (Zambia).
Whilst
in Nysasland (Malawi) he had
stumbled upon Shiwa Ngandu lake, which local tradition had was the place of the Royal
crocodiles. He had been enchanted by the place and stayed on, proclaiming
the land as his estate upon which he built the stately Shiwa Ngandu
or Africa house. The house would look not
out of place in the English countryside with its fine red bricks,
high walls, entrance gates, driveways and ornamental gardens. It is
difficult to believe that it is less then 100 years old. It has an
Alice lost in Wonderland feel about
it. The grandeur of an English stately home set amongst soaring Eucalyptus
and other non indigenous plant varieties. I almost expected to see
a game of crocket being played on the lawn, whilst ladies in Victorian
dresses nibbled on cucumber sandwiches and men strolled in their pin
stripe blazer, twiddling with their moustaches as they discussed commerce
and their next bold adventure into the heart of darkness.
The place
is an anomaly in the African landscape that surrounds it, yet it feels
stragely familiar. I guess the grand scheme and design worked for
that is what feeling it is intended to portray to an Englishman in
this foreign land. I do not normally agree with such blatant symbols
of the colonial grandeur of the past, yet Shiwa is different. It was
never intended as the masters house from
where he could survey his land and issue out his decrees to the local
savages.
Shiwa has
and still is more like a cooperative between the local indigenous
people and the new generation of Malawian. Shiwa was in the 1980 a
derelict shell of its former self. The daughter of the colnel had
lived at Africa house with her husband and they
had been actively involved in local rights, land reform and putting
and end to the ivory trade. They were murdered it is assumed for their
prominent activities in such areas. After their deaths Shiwa sat empty
and over the years nature started to take here back to its roots.
This was more then just a travesty of such a fine piece of architecture
disintegrating, it was the disintegration
of the cooperative which had supported 100s of families in their livelihood
of farming. Thankfully in the 1990s two of the daughters sons elected to return to Shiwa from their own flourishing
careers in Malawi and to invest in a major restoration
program. Today Shiwa stands bold, lavishing in its former glory by
supporting the local people through employment in agriculture and
tourism. The house is lived in and run as a guest house by the elder
brother Charlie a somewhat aloof man, whilst the younger and more
outgoing brother Mark, has established a lodge on the estate next to geologiocal
thermal baths. The lodge, named Kapishya, is very nice and it is is
easy to forget you are in Africa when you walk through its English Cottage garden.. Indeed Mark admitted he has inherited his mothers green fingers. The setting is idyllic with a river
flowing gracefully past the end of the gardens manicured lawns, a
sun terrace offers sanctuary from the heat of the day, lush borders
and pots of flowers and schrubs abound offering a spectacular array
of local and foreign specimens. The house nestles amongst the green
and colourful foliage, its higgledy piggledy contours almost comical
yet reminiscent of a quaint Devon Cottage. Mark is working hard to
develop Kapishya. As he put it “trying to find the
balance between developing it but not to commercialise it”.
It’s not just the lodge he is developing,
they are working hard with the local people that live on the land
on education, health, subsistence and commerce. Through a series of
programs they are teaching the people skills they have long forgotten
and stopped using.
As for the hot springs………..awwwwwwhhhhhhhhhh. Fantastic, image reclining in
40 C pure waters, there is no mineral content at all so no sulphurus
smelling rotten eggs. The springs have been left natural and so you
relax in the hot water amongst a backdrop of African bush, to the
sounds of the wildlife about you and in the evening you can lay on
your back and star gaze whilst the hot water gently massage and soothes
your tired limbs and joints. Yes Kapishya is highly recommended. It
is 10$US pppd but that does includes unlimited
use of the hot springs……it is a trifle expensive but
personally I rate it and think you would pay a lot more for such a
pleasant setting and to visit other hot springs.
Tagebuch
Nachdem
wir alles zusammengepackt haben und los wollten kam George, der Besitzer
und Vater von Andrew und hat uns eine Plastiktuete voller Rusk (hartbrot)
mitgegeben um Charly und Joanna in Shiwa
Ngandu zu geben. Die Strasse war sehr guter Asphalt und schoene Landschaft
und so sind wir gluecklich Richtung Norden
gefahren. Die vielen kleinen Kirchen wurden von “Kingdom Halls” Zeugen
der Jehovas ersetzt und die Chongalollos durch haarige grosse braune
Tausendfuessler. (Unglaublich wenn man sieht was wir Weissen hier
in Afrika so angestellt haben mit den ganzen Gottesglaube etc. und
das Schlimmste ist die Missionare sind alle immer noch hier und versuchen
den einheimischen Glauben und Traditionen umzukrempeln!! Sorry, aber
wir haben solche Missionare in Livingstone getroffen – soviel Scheiss
kann man gar nicht in einem Satz reden wie die!)
Shiwa Ngandu wurde in 1930 von einem Britischen Colonel gebaut, der helfen wollte die Grenze zwischen Nordrhodesian
(Zambia) und Belgischem
Congo (DRC) zu etablieren. Es sollte das groesste und glamouroeste
Haus Afrikas werden und ist noch heute Haus
Afrika genannt. Seine Tochter die das Haus naach seinem Tod uebernommen
hat, wurde mit ihrem Mann in den fruehen Neunziger Jahren unter misterioesen
Umstaenden ermordet, da sie zuviel Einsicht in die Zambische Politik
hatten.
Jetzt
wird es von dem Enkel Charly und seiner Frau gefuehrt die auch gleichzeitig
dort wohnen, 30 km weiter entfernt noch auf dem Gut, sind die Kapishya
Hotsrpings, wo Mark Harvey, der andere Enkel eine sehr nette und urige
Lodge gebaut hat. Hier haben wir gecampt und sind
nachts zu den naturbelassenen Hotsprings zum schwimmen gegangen. Das
war so cool, der Nebel stieg von den Quellen auf und rundherum ist
Busch und wenn man nach oben guckt kann man den schoenen Sternenhimmerl
sehen. Mark hat die Quellen total natuerlich gelassen, nur eine kleine
Mauer gebaut damit das Wasser etwas hoeher ist.
Die Quellen sind 40 C und haben keinen Schwefel oder Mineralien und sind
durch die Erdbewegung der Rift Valley entstanden. Total cool und entspannend!
Das Haus haben wir uns nur von aussen angeguckt da es sonst 20 US$ pp kostet,
wahnsinn! Der gute Charly konnte sich noch nicht mal dazu bringen
seine Rusk persoenlich in Empfang zu nehmen….einige Leute finden sich
einfach zu wichtig….
Where are we: Mpulunga, Lake Tanganyika, Zambia
Date: 16th – 17th
March 2005
End GPS: S08 45.586 E31 06.892
Total Kilometres: 52 228 km
Weather: hot and humid, rain, storm
Camping: Nkupi Lodge
So
after our relaxation in the hot springs we headed down the dirt track
west toward the tar road that shall take us up to Lake Tanganyika, following in the footsteps of
Dr Livingstone on his quest to find the African interior and the source
of the Nile. Tanganyika is the longest lake in Africa and was originally thought by
Dr Livingstone to be the source of the Nile. He and Stanley diagreed bitterly
over this and it was only after Livingstones death in the African
interior that proof finally came about that indeed Stanley was proved
correct in his assumptions that the Nile rivers source was actually
from another large inland lake, Lake Victroria. The waters of Tanganyika lap against the shoreline of four
countries, DRC, Burundi, Tanzania and Malawi. The lake is still important today
in sustaining a large fishing industry and for the steamships that
still ply trade between the 4 countries.
We traveled to Mpulunga on the far sourthern shores of the
lake. The town has grown up around the fishing industry and boasts
of it importance in the commercial fishing industry. Like any such
town built around marine life, it has a shabby, smelly air about it.
The town itself is a ramshackle display of buildings and a large open
air market. The shops sell all you can not need and it has all the
appearance of any other fishing town in Africa. Yet as soon as the sun sets Mpulunga
starts to rock. The high street is brightly illuminated and the shops
that lay dormant in the daytime spring to life pumping out music whilst
the bars do a good trade and the restaurants fill the stomachs of
the people. There is money here both from the fishing and from the
trade that comes in every Friday aboard the steamer as she moors up
at the jetty after her voyage down from Tanzania.
We stayed
at Nkupi lodge, named after the fish. It use
to be a bit of a hippy trip but now it is owned by an Indian and run
by a lovely lady, Charity. The place seemed to be undergoing renovation
when we where there. It is simple but pleasant and is set just back
from the shoreline of the lake. We ate a good meal prepared by Charities
auntie, of Ngupi and rape (a green spinach like plant that is cooked with onion, ginger
and chillies). A bit pricey but it did feed 3 of us till we were stuffed.
You can swim in the lake but both Bilharzia and crocs can make it
a bit concerning. We met an interesting German here. He has been coming
to the lake for over 15 years to collect core samples and artifacts
from its depths. It turned out he is a Evolutionologist?
I had never heard of this, but he assured us that it is the science
that studies and supports the theories put forward by Charles Darwin.
Lake Tanganyika is important in the research as
its sediments are hundreds of thousand years old and are as such a
time capsule of information.
Tagebuch
Nachdem
wir uns noch mit Marc unterhalten haben und er uns ein paar Tips gegeben
hat sind wir umj 11:55 Uhr endlich losgekommen. Es fing an zu regnen und wurde ein kurzes Gewitter. Die Strasse wurde
immer schlechter und immer mehr Leute spazierten darauf, leider hat
es ein Huhn nicht geschafft uns auszuweichen, obwohl wir mit quitschenden
Reifen gebremst haben (vergisst nicht dies ist
ein 3.5T schwerer Landy!)…..
Wir kamen dem Lake Tanganyka immer naeher und somit auch einem anderen 7. Weltwunder – der Great Rift Valley. Die Landschaft war traumhaft und es wurde wieder dunkel und das
Licht so wunderschoen. Als wir in Mpulungu
ankamen hat uns das kleine Fischerdorf mit dem einzigen Hafen in Zambia sofort gefallen.
Ueberall waren kleine einheimische Bars, Musik kam von ueberall und
lachende Leute auf der Strasse, einige Damen verkauften ihr Strassenessen….
Die Nkupi Lodge haben wir aber eine halbe Stunde lang
nicht gefunden. Als wir dort ankamen haben
wir Brote gemacht und uns mit zwei Deutschen Krankenschwestern, Peggy
und Sina, die hier voluntarisch gearbeitet haben, unterhalten und
sind wieder relative frueh ins Bett gegangen.
Am naechsten Tag haben wir es ruhig angehen lassen und sind mit den Maedels zum Markt spaziert. Es war herrlich, wieder
so wie wir es kennen – man kann alles kaufen und die Damen finden
es urkomisch wenn wir etwas von denen kaufen, besonders wenn David
mit ihnen flirtet. Danach haben wir uns in eine Bar gesetzt Cola getrunken
und die Leute beobachtet.
Am Nachmittag haben wir am Computer gearbeitet und uns vom Regen
versteckt.
Where are we: On road to Malawi border along Tanzania, Zambia
Date: 18th
March 2005
End GPS: S09 06.687 E031 43.246
Total Kilometres: 52 407 km
Weather: hot, sunny and rain again
Camping: bushcamp
We
have headed just up the lakeshore to the east to visit the second
highest waterfalls in Africa. Kalambo falls plummet over 200
metres vertical into the gorge below. The tranquil river above does
little to betray the sheer terror that lies just over the lip of what
looks a very inviting pool to swim in. The falls are a national heritage
site however they have only built some concrete paths. There are no
fences to stop you and if you are not looking it is quite possible
to walk over the cliff edge where a 200 metres sheer drop awaits you.
Now it isn’t the falling I worry about, it’s the sudden stop at the
bottom that gets me. Naturally I was brave as ever and strayed no
more then 10 metres from the edge whilst my intrepid wife hung over
the edge taking photos. She even wanted to go and lay on the rock
edge by the waterfall lip and peer over……………….yeh, right!!!! The falls
are an awesome sight set amongst the green rolling hills that cascade
down to the waters of Lake Tanganyika, the river separates Tanzania from Zambia. We are almost as far north as
we were when at N’Zeto in Angola on the journey down. Almost half
way home, but from here we shall instead head east and then south
once again to take in the views and diving of Lake Malawi and then over to northern Mozambique.
On the road again heading this time for Malawi and another
great lake of Africa. The road is dirt track as we are
cutting across country. Sticky and slippy we are nevertheless making
good progress. The road is nice and runs us through lots of villages
and settlements. The people here take pride in their homes and many
are adorned with flower gardens, fences and even hedges. The people
are very friendly and excited to see Mzungu traveling through their
land. We stopped often to take photos of the ladies as they walked
along the track balancing all sorts on their heads.
We found
ourselves a bushcamp of the track in a hidden clearing. We could hear
a settlement nearby but the people seemed to not hear us as we arrived
and we actually enjoyed a night of peace and quiet under the stars.
Tagebuch
Es hat in der Nacht geregnet und am Morgen immer noch! Also haben
wir unser nasses Zelt weggepackt sind nochmal
kurz zum Seeufer gegangen und dann losgefahren. Die Strasse zu den
Kalambo Falls war ziemlich
schlecht aber fuehrte an kleinen Siedlungen
vorbei wo die Kinder alle geschrien und gewunken haben. Die Wasserfaelle
sind die zweithoechsten einzelnen Faelle in Afrika und wunderschoen
gelegen, allerdings gibt es keinen Zaun oder sonstige Absicherung
und man kann direkt am Klippenende entlang gehen – das war natuerlich
nicht wirklich was fuer David mit seiner Hoehenangst und hat sich
fast in die Hose gemacht wenn ich Photos machen wollte. Somit hab
ich mich dann doch nicht
auf die trockenen Steine ganz oben wo der Fall runtersausst hingelegt
um zu gucken wie das so aussieht und wie die Photos gewesen waeren….Auf
der anderen Seite war Tanzania!
Als wir wieder beim Auto waren kamen die
Beaufsichtiger und wollten natuerlich Eintrittsgeld fuer uns und Landy
haben, so eine bescheuerte Regelung in Afrika kommt immer noch aus
Suedafrika….
Wir sind dann weitergefahren und haben um
17:11 Uhr ein schoenes
Buschcamp vom Weg ab gefunden. Hier haben wir das Zelt aufgebaut,
eine Siedlung in der Ferne gehoert und wie in alten Zeiten Sardinen
mit Spaghetti gekocht. Es wurde ziemlich nasskalt und alles war feucht,
also haben wir uns schon um 20:30 Uhr ins Zelt verkrochen.
Where are we: Karonga, Malawi
Date: 19th
March 2005
End GPS: S09 56.246 E33 56.681
Total Kilometres: 52 791 km
Weather: 23 C, humid and rainy
Camping: Mufwa Lodge, Lake Malawi
We rose
early in order ot get a head start on the
day. We have a fair way to go to get to Malawi today. We must first go north
to the border town of Nakonde to get our paperwork signed out
of Zambia, this is because there is no border
control on the route into Malawi via Chitipa. As we rose from the
tent bursting for the loo the local schoolkids discovered our secret
camp. It’s always when you are busting for a pee that you get discovered.
We made breakfast and packed up to the giggles and antics of the kids
as they watched these strange Mzungu go about their business. We called
them to come over but they were to shy and did not want to invade
our space, so they just sat and stared. We finally were ready to go
and waved and hooted goodbye and then merrily sank up to the axle
in mud!!!!
Not
quite the exit we had planned. So out we jumped, off with the sand
ladders, a bit of digging (courtesy of one of the locals, I wasn’t
allowed to dig) then with a back and forward momentum and 10 kids
pushing and pulling we extracted the DuK from her mud bath. After
cleaning off the ladders and shovel we packed up, gave a donantion
to the sweety fund and set off, with one of the local guys who wanted
a ride up the road.
We dropped
him at his aunties house, spoke a little
with the local ladies with their babies and then the Mzungu headed
off down the road. We reached Nakonde early and I made a quick visit
to Tanzania to enquire about visas to see
if it would be cheaper for us to get a multi entry visa and go to
Malawi via the tar road and Tanzania where diesel is cheaper. No luck
as they don’t issue multi entry visas on the border so we shall indeed
head south east to the border to Malawi via Chitipa. The paperwork was
all done very quickly and with a smile. African borders can sometimes
be quite easy and stress free. We headed back out of town and drove
about 70 km south before taking a left turn onto a donkey track that
would lead us to Malawi. The donkey track soon disappeared
and we found ourselves bundi bashing through villages and then driving
what appeared to be a river bed that was once a track. Our progress
slowed to our usual off road 15kph. After another 70 km we finally
picked up what was a much better dirt track that within minutes had
us delivered into the outskirts of Chitipa. Here we did our entry
paperwork with immigration and customs. Probably the most friendly
immigration man we shall ever meet not just in Africa but the world. He was an ambassador
of his country and immensely proud of his country. The customs guy
tried to tell Kat she needed to pay for the carnet stamp so she just
said “No” and that was that he duely signed and gave it back to her.
All done in 10 minutes we drove through town and
headed out on the dirt, potholed track toward Karonga. This
is about 100 km and has you running up and
down as the road winds its way over the southern most part of the
rift valley. It was reminiscent of the ring road that we took in Cameroun. We were running out of light
and finding a bushcamp was proving difficult as the ground was steep
at the road edge. We chose to continue to Karonga even though it would
involve driving in the dark. We calculated a low risk as the road
was quiet and dry. Cue the rain……..and the flat tyre and the steep
downhills and the big potholes and the trucks coming up the hill………..As
always we spoke to soon and sure enough the left rear punctured on
a large pothole. We got out and the heavens opened, choked the wheels
and jack the Duk up and changed the wheel in the dark. 20 minutes
from start to end, not bad in such nice conditions. We eventually
arrived in Karonga at about 19:00. We drove to the Marina club but they did not have any
camping and so we where sent round the corner to another motel type
place. Here we could camp, get a meal, drink a cold beer and have
a shower. Cool we were sold and elected to stay. We did however have
one last problem, the bloody handbrake got
stuck on due to the water we had driven through on the way to the
border. It was seized on, but it could wait till the morning. So we
ate an African interpretation of the chicken curry, drank a couple
of Kuche Kuche beers and fell into bed knackered.
Tagebuch
Wir konnten in der Nacht das Dorf hoeren und wilde
Trommel- und Gesangsgeraeusche, als ob es ein Fest war. Also hat es
auch nicht lange gedauert bis wir entdeckt wurden. Erst haben die Maenner
heimlich durchs hohe Grass geschaut und dann auch ein paar Frauen.
Wir haben gewunken und sie gelacht. Als
ich mit dem Kelly Kettle unser Wasser kochen wollten haben sie sich
natuerlich totgelacht und gefragt was ich koche. David
hat gesagt sie sollen rueberkommen, haben sich aber nicht getraut.
Ich bin dann auf sie zu gekommen und habe alle Haende geschuettelt
und der kleine Junge hat sich aengstlich hinter seiner jungen Mama
versteckt. 
Wir
wollten gerade los da sind wir total im weichen
Matsch eingesackt! Also haben wir die Jungs
gebeten uns zu helfen, ich immer mit denen vorne den Landy geschaukelt
und angeschoben und Kommando gegeben. Es war sehr
lustig, wir mussten sogar unsere Sandbleche rausholen so dass David
DuK rueckwaerts rausfahren konnte. Ich hab
ausserdem versucht Photos zu machen, aber musste natuerlich mit anpacken.
Die Dorfbewohner fanden das ganze Spektakel natuerlich ganz toll!
Als wir endlich auf festen Boden waren haben
wir uns bedankt und einem der Jungs ein bisschen Geld zum Verteilen
gegeben. Dieser wollte mit uns mitfahren, da 3 km
entfernt eine Beerdigung stattfand. Ein Baby ist
gestorben, deswegen konnten wir auch Nachts das Getrommel und den
Gesang hoeren….
Die Piste war ok und ueberall waren die Menschen in ihrem besten
Kleid um zur Kirche zu gehen (obwohl es Samstag war). Wir mussten
einen kleinen Umweg unternehmen da bei dem Grenzuebergang nach Malawi kein Posten
auf Zambischer Seite ist, also mussten wir
nach Nakonde zur Tanzanischen Grenze fahren um uns aus Zambia rausstempeln
zu lassen. Wir waren froh hier nicht nach Tanzania ausreisen zu muessen – Afrikanisches Chaos herrschte hier. David hat die
Erlaubnis bekommen kurz nach Tanzania zu spazieren
um zu sehen wie die Dieselpreise dort sind,
waehrend ich geduldig gewartet habe und von allen moeglichen Jungs
angeschwatzt wurde….
Von hier sind wir eine geteerte Strasse
gefahren bis wir zu dem Abzweig nach Malawi kamen. Und sofort
haben wir gedacht das schaffen wir heute nie! Der Weg war ein typischer
Eselweg mit riesen Steinen im Weg und grosse Pfitzen und was sonst
noch auf der Route….Na-ja wir haben es natuerlich bewaeltigt und sind
dann gegen 16:00 Uhr in Chitipa, Malawi, auf der Grenze angekommen.
Hier wurden wir ganz freundlich empfangen und ueber
Malawi und das Strassensystem informiert. Die Piste wurde
dann auch etwas besser und die Landschaft sehr schoen, immer hoch und runter. Daemmerung kam und wir haben gerade ueberlegt
ob wir ein buschcamp finden sollen oder 30
km bis zum Dorf am See weiterfahren sollen, als wir einen Platten
hatten! Toll bis David das Ersatzrad runter hatte und ich den Wagenheber
geholt habe war es schon dunkel! Trotzdem hat es nur 20 Minuten gedauert
den Reifen (ja, wieder genau der gleiche der immer kaputt geht!!!)
zu wechseln, aber David war dann so angenervt dass er zum Campingplatz
wollte und ein Bier trinken wollte….Ausserdem haben wir keine Lichtungen
gefunden wo wir haetten campen koennen…..
In Karonga haben wir uns ein paar lodges angeguckt, konnten dort aber nicht campen. Dann haben wir Mufwe Lodge direkt am
See gefunden, wo wir auf dem riesigen Rasen
campen konnten. Es war wohl vor 15 Jahren mal eine gute Lodge und
nun ziemlich heruntergekommen und kaum Security also wollten wir uns
noch eine andere angucken und sind gerade 2km weit gekommen da war unsere Handbremse immer
noch angezogen und wir konnten sie einfach nicht losbekommen- es hat
furchtbar gestunken!! Also mussten wir umkehren, haben bei der Mufwe
Lodge geparkt und sind ins einfache Restaurant gegangen, haben Curry bestellt
und ein kaltes Malawische KucheKuche Bier getrunken. Was fuer ein
Tag!
Where are we: Livingstonia, Malawi
Date: 20th
March 2005
End GPS: S10 35.135 E034 07.676
Total Kilometres: 52 903 km
Weather: hot, overcast, 29.5 C
Camping: Lukwe Ecolodge, on edge of cliff
overlooking Lake Malawi
First duties
of the day, repair the cylinder on the handbrake.
The shoes were well and truly seized on to the drum and I was glad
of the muscle power of a couple of local guys who turned out to be
mechanics. We stripped the handbrake, cleaned all of the components
and reassembled it. Job done. Kat had packed away, changed money and we hit the
road south along the lake shore. A really beautiful
drive and even more awesome scenaery as we reached the escarpment
where the town of Livinstonia is located. This is
where Dr Livingstone clambered to view and chart parts of Lake Malawi. We had a spectacular view of
the lake from the road and then stopped at an overlander lodge on
the lake shore. Very nice but it had that typical attitude of an overland
run establishment. They have this arrogance about them as if they
are so special and cool……..all they do is drive a truck….to quote
one overland driver who I pissed off because I dared to suggest they
should be more educational to their guest and act as a guide…..to
quote him “I drive the *****ing truck and that’s what I do”……OK so
you’re a yorkie bar trucker….so stop acting as if you are an intrepid
adventurer come famous explorer……….. it seems
only the Dragoman drivers are down to earth…….Naturally we ate lunch
and left. We drove 2 km down the road, took a right turn and heaed
up the switch back track leading up the escarpment toward Livingstonia.
We stopped at the Mushroom Farm, as Neil in the Young Ones would say
“Yehh, cooool man”. It is actually really cool, run by a
Mzungu who we did not see, but he was in the ether somewhere. The
place is an eco lodge with two rooms, sawdust drop loos and a neat charcoal fridge
(the charcoal is dowsed in water
and the wind supercools as it dries the water in the coal thus causing
a temp gradient that sucks the warmer air from within the fridge compartments).
Sadly there was nowhere for us to park DuK and pitch up so we headed
a few Km up the road to another eco lodge run by a Canadian couple
and their teenage daughter. This is their retirement plan and the
place is very nice. It has 5 basic but nice wood and reed chalets,
an open lounge and kitchen area and very cool refreshing trees and
gardens where they grow their own veggies and have their own farm
animals. The views from the chalets and lodge are spectacular of Lake Malawi and it is a good setting for sunrise
photos over the lake. It was a very relaxed evening and we enjoyed
the company of Chawe who is the manager for Bruse and his wife.
Tagebuch
David
hat heute morgen erstmal die Handbremse repariert. Das ganze Auto hat gestunken und zwei einheimische Mechaniker kamen
vorbei und haben geholfen. Ich hab mit einem Hollaender Geld
getauscht und somit hatten wir endlich Malawi Kwacha. Um 11:00 Uhr sind wir losgekommen und haben erstmal getankt, ein wenig aber
nicht viel billiger als Zambia! Die Leute hier
waren sehr hilfsbereit und haben immer gelaechelt, sehr nett! Sobald
wir jedoch am See entlang weiter suedlich gefahren sind kamen die
ausgestreckten Haende, Hungerzeichen und “give me sweets” anstatt
die Daumen hoch und ein nettes Winken…..Wir Touristen haben mal wieder
eine nette Kultur zerstoert, wie so oft in Afrika….
In Chititembe haben wir auf einem Campingplatz angehalten und dort zu Mittag gegessen. Dann sind
wir weiter nach Livingstonia gefahren. Das Missionarsdorf erreicht
man ueber einen steilen Pass der sich den Berg entlang mit super Blick
auf den See hochwindet. Livingstonia ist
1199 m hoch und hat fantastische Ausblicke auf den See.
Hier haben wir Lukwe Ecolodge gefunden und gecampt. Ein sehr netter Platz, der seit 5 Monaten von einem Amerikanischen
Paar gefuehrt wird, die mit ihrer 12-jaehrigen Tochter aus Michigan
hier hergezogen sind. Haley, die Tochter, geht jetzt hier zur Schule
und lernt ganz schoen viel von den Einheimischen – sehr interssant!
Where are we: 10 km south of Chinteche, Malawi
Date: 21st
March 2005
End GPS: S11 53.650 E34 10.032
Total Kilometres: 53 141 km
Weather: hot and sunny
Camping: Nkhawzi Camp
We ate
breakfast with Chawe and Hayle the daughter of the owner Bruce. She
is really quite a switched on teenager. Not missing life back home
in the US, she is now integrated into the
local school and community. The family has only been in Malawi for 5 months but already she is
speaking the local language. She is proud of her schooling here, saying
they push her and make her learn unlike at home in the US where she
had been put in “Special” classes as she was a “slow” learner. Here
in Malawi she had learnt what it was like
to get up at 5:00 and to have to walk for an hour to school in the
dark, to help friends with their chores at home before they could
play. To view having a cold coke as a major treat.
To understand that she was priveledged in the community in which she
lived. Wow, lets hope that Hayle educates her friends back in the
US as to how distorted our lives
have become.
We made
our way along the back roads that take you over the escarpment. This
is a much prettier road then the main road and it leads you through
green valleys, villages and tobacco plantations. We eventually came
out on the main road heading towards Nkhata bay. This is described
in various books as a pearl of Malawi and we looked forward to lazing
under a palm tree on a deserted beach………Uhhhhh, no. Nkhata bay is
a bustling town set on the shore of a small bay. It had a bad air
about it. Too many tourists had past by this way and the place was
more hassle then it was worth. We checked out a few places but found
it all claustrophobic and we decided not to stay. We headed south
down the tar road and eventually found Nkhawzi camp which was set
on the lakeshore, was very peaceful, had lots of trees and shade to
camp under and a beautiful sandy beach which we had all to ourselves.
Much better. We enjoyed a restefull night in the company of
Jim Davidson the owner and two fellow guests.
Tagebuch
Heute morgen haben wir mit Chawe und den anderen
Arbeitern gefruehstueckt und gekloent. Haley hat uns
viele interessante Geschichten erzaehlt und Chawe hat mir dann seinen
Grill geschenkt, den ich so gut fand. Suess, der ist
zwar total verrostet aber sehr gut zu gebrauchen!
Heute war Livingstone Day, ein Feiertag, was in Afrika immer bedeutet,
dass die glaubigen Leute sich schick machen und in die Kirche gehen
und gut drauf sind und der Rest der maennlichen Bevoelkerung schon
um 10 Uhr morgens voellig betrunken ist….
Wir wollten den Bergpass entlang nach Nkhata Bay fahren. Der Weg war
gut und die Landschaft schoen und die Menschen warm und freundlich.
Wir sind an vielen Tabakfeldern vorbeigekommen. Tabak ist Malawis Hauptexport und waechst ueberall im Hochland. Mittags
sind wir in Mzuzu angekommen und waren endlich
bei der Bank und einkaufen.
Wir haben in einem kleinen Restaurant Samosas geholt und von einem
Jungen hartgekochte Eier gekauft und uns auf unser Dach gesetzt und
den Strassenkuenstlern bei ihrem Akrobatikakt zugeschaut. Es war sehr
nett und wir haben ihnen Trinkgeld und Samosas gegeben und Applaus
von der ganzen Stadt bekommen. Ausserdem habe ich von einem Rastamann
10 Armbaender fuer 2,50$ gekauft! Die sind gut zum Tauschen
oder als Geschenk.
Als wir in Nkhata Bay ankamen wurden
wir schon wieder nur bloed angelabert und fanden die Campingplaetze
nicht sehr sicher, also haben wir uns wieder aus dem Staub gemacht.
Ca. 50 Km weiter suedlich haben wir das Nkhawzi Camp gefunden, direkt
am See gelegen und schoen ruhig. Wir wurden
von drei verrueckten Hunden begruesst und haben dann auf dem Deck
Bier getrunken und Pizza bestellt! Lecker! Wir haben Jim, den netten
aber abgefuckten und betrunkenen Besitzer kennengelernt, der vor ein
paar Monaten in einer anderen Lodge vom Deck gefallen ist, schwere
Operationen haben musste und nun ein kuerzeres Bein hat und mit einem
Gehwagen durch die Gegend faehrt; und zwei Deutsche, Harry und Silke,
kennengelernt, die mit einem Magius Deutz Truck von Namibia gekommen
sind und dort arbeiten. Wir hatten einen netten Abend und viel Bier….
Where are we: Kande Beach, Malawi
Date: 22nd
March 2005 – 28th
March 2005
End GPS: S11 57.073 E34 07.359
Total Kilometres: 53 149 km
Weather: hot and sunny, very nice
Camping: Kande Beach Camp
We
are just 10 km down the road at Kande Beach where we shall spend Easter weekend
diving for our Advanced Diver certification. The diving is at altitude
and fresh water so it adds a bit more experience to our dives to date.
The diving is a little restricted but it is still good fun and relaxing.
The dive school is run by Marcel and Corinna, a mad Swiss couple who
checked in to Kande beach whilst overlanding and never checked out.
They have built themselves a fabulous diving school and home. Standards
are very high here and Marcel is a very good if slightly eccentric
instructor who has an aptitude for teaching Japanese students who
have a problem of reverting to the fetal position when they come into
contact with water. We dived
the island with Marcels trusty side kick Stan and enjoyed seeing all
of the cichlids (their those pretty fish
you see in Grandmas fish tank back home), the wreck (an old VW car)
and the other wreck (a sunken mokoro). Next day we dived by ourselves
testing out our navigation skills by circumnavigating the island underwater
and we also dived on a reef that Marcel is looking at opening up for
diving, tha later is at a depth of 28 metres (altitude adjusted) and
makes for a good dive as you see large cat fish and other specimens.
Thankfully no crocs though. We found Kande beach a good place and stayed
for easter, it was quiet and no overland
trucks appeared which made for a very relaxed atmosphere. The beach
here is beautiful and the waters of the lake are 28C and Bilharzia
free. There is plenty to do here as well from scuba, to sailing and
horseriding including a swim in the lake with the horses afterward.
The bar is relaxed and the people that run the place friendly. There
is even a Soft Sands Café, a little overpriced but the food is very
good. It just needs a little more friendly reception from its owners
who may have been in Malawi to long and need a break. We highly
recommend the place especially the horseriding and diving.
Tagebuch
Heute sind wir viel gefahren – ganze 9 km!!!
Wir hatten gehoert dass man hier tauchen kann und es einen schoenen
Badestrand gibt. So war das auch und wir haben die Tage hier verbracht
unseren PADI Open Water Advanced Kurs zu beenden, waren schwimmen
und haben uns mit Marcel, unseren Tauchlehrer, und Corinna, seine
Frau, angefreundet. Die beiden waren so nett, sehr ehrlich
und lustig und wir hatten viel Spass und guten Kaffee – vielen Dank
ihr beiden. Ausserdem haben wir uns mit anderen Leuten gut verstanden
und uns gut unterhalten und versucht herauszufinden was wir eigentlich
alle wollen vom Leben und in Afrika suchen….
Das Tauchen war cool und einen Tag sind
David und ich ganz alleine mit einem Kompass um die Insel getaucht.
Die Fische hier heissen Cichlids und es gibt tausende von verschiedenen
Arten, bunte Aquariumfische. Die Mutter traegt ihre Jungen im Maul
wenn sie sie beschuetzen will.
Malawi ist ziemlich guenstig fuer Wassersportarten und somit haben
wir uns einen Tag einen Catamaran fuer eine Stunde fuer 6US$ gemietet
und David hat mir Segeln beigebracht, das war auch sehr schoen und
David war in seinem Element. Wir wollten immer fahren aber wurden
immer wieder ueberredet zu bleiben und ausserdem waren wir tauchsuechtig
und insbesondere David moechte am Liebsten seinen Divemaster machen
und irgendwo in der Sonne als Tauchlehrer
arbeiten…
Where are we: Lilongwe, Malawi
Date: 29th – 31st
March 2005
End GPS: S13 59.951 E033 45.584
Total Kilometres: 53 563 km
Weather: hot in the day, rain at night
Camping: Kiboko Camp
We have
driven south along the good tar road to Lilongwe where we shall arrange our Mosi
and Tanzania visa. The Mosi one costs $16 for
the two of us and the Tanzanian and whacking $100 for two visas. The
Mosi embassy is very friendly and quick,
they had our visas ready in half a day. The Tanzanian embassy is friendly
but bureaucratic although after explaining that I could not leave
our passports without receipt we suddenly found we had our
visas issued in 3 hours?
Lilongwe is a rapidly developing city with
many new buildings, shops and restaurants going up. It has a large
Lebanese contingent which means, yep, there is great food and supermarkets
filled with all you need. There is also a fully stocked Shoprite,
fast internet and even Nandos in town so its
not really roughing it here. We stayed at Kikobo backpackers lodge
just out from the main centre of town. Its clean and has everything you need and is cheaper then the
Golf club which has only basic facilities.
Tagebuch
Wir haben uns endlich losgerissen und verabschiedet und sind die Asphaltstrasse nach Lilongwe gefahren. Am Strassenrand wurden Rattanmoebel und Baobabfruechte verkauft.
Ich bin leider etwas faul geworden, um Photos zu machen und habe keine
geschossen; wahrscheinlich weil immer so
lange an einem Platz geblieben sind…
Lilongwe ist die Hauptstadt Malawis und hat einige sehr moderne Gebaeude
und Firmen, ist aber ziemlich klein und nichts besonderes. Die Lebanesen
haben hier wieder Oberhand, was heisst man kann alles in den Supermaerkten
bekommen, normalerweise zu guten Preisen.
Wir haben hier unser Mozambique Visa beantragt und problemlos fuer
16US$ pp am Nachmittag bekommen. Die Tanzanische Botschaft sah ganz
anders aus – Korruption beginnt….Angeblich brauchen Deutsche
kein Visa fuer Tanzania, so die Buecher.
Aber wir beide brauchen eins, fuer 50US$ pp!! Es gibt keinen Beleg!!!
Und wir brauchen eine Photokopie von unserem Reisepass…..Die Leute
da waren so anstrengend, dass wir kein Bock mehr auf Afrika hatten.
Wir sollten das ja alles gewohnt sein aber ich glaub wir sind ein wenig ausgelaugt…..
Na-ja, wir haben es dann bekommen und die Warterei ueber uns ergehen
lassen, immer mit einem Laecheln aber zaehneknirschend!
Ausserdem waren wir im Internetcafe, das erste Mal seit Lusaka, und hatten
ueber 30 Emails! Das war toll, vielen Dank an alle die geschrieben
haben, wir haben uns total gefreut und auch geantwortet! Da
das Internet langsam war und wir schreiben wollten, waren wir fast
vier Stunden da. Ausserdem haben wir Neuigkeiten gehoert, dass
die Faehre ueber den Ruvuma Fluss von Mozambique nach Tanzania nicht
faehrt und wenn man eine Alternative findet, kostet das US$100! Also
haben wir wild versucht mehr info zu bekommen und waren auf alle moeglichen
Reiseforen – mal sehen was dabei rauskommt, wir fahren trotzdem erstmal
nach Mozambique….
